The passing of Wayne's Mum, his Dad's illness, his own heart attack and his daughter's car accident have brought his focus squarely back on family. Im seeing a Leunig moment of a father showing a young son a surf forecast site for the first time. And another thing he did in the Allan Oke contest one year, I won it and he came second. 2 0 obj It was. This statement was just released from Blue Highway. How about people referring to you as a Messiah? In other words Vietnam was a hoax. You had your fire on the beach, you surfed, and youd come in and stand around the fire getting warm, having something to eat, talking to your friends. But we surfed really good waves to ourselves down the coast the other day. You put a golf ball in a hole, you kick a football between the posts, theres a start and an end and there are lines and rules that make it a sport, but surfing is subjective and artistic and expressive and thats the bottom line. You just become part of the machine otherwise. When this started happening on a wave it was like, wow, this is what Ive been seeing. Dad was a good builder, very thorough. [Laughing] And there was no mistake, cause one was twice the size of the other! He fished in the 50s and 60s for couta fish barracouta. 1981-11-09-BC-OCR-Page-0093 Albert Jaffe, news director, KNTV(TV) San Jose, Calif., joins KOVR(TV) Sacramento, Calif., in same capacity. And the attention started to be a little too much and I was expected to do amazing things every time I was in the water. So, being a goofyfoot, every turn on your backhand is a cutback in a sense, so once I began to adapt this technique I picked up from Peter I kept working on it. Every house Dad built she called it Namatjira in his honour. A. Pawlowski is a TODAY health reporter focusing on health news and features. You also give the American Heart Association your consent to use your name, recording, photograph, likeness, voice, actions, silhouette, appearance, and any statements made by you, in any publicity, publications, promotional and marketing material, advertising, and any other print materials, webpages, electronic or other media or communication published or distributed by the American Heart Association in perpetuity and without compensation or notice. Ive been part of a subculture, which is surfing, I didnt follow the given path within that subculture. And suddenly a whole way of life has been taken away with the stroke of a pen. That just scared me, so I just got out of there as quick as I could and thats when I went and found my wife.